historical Costumes Weblog
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Finally, some pictures from Ottmarsheim, and my new (well 3 months is still rather new) blue dress. Pictures by Marina
And I know, it's very late in style, but I like it never the less.
Made of dark blue wool, laced with red silk laces (6 loops), the headress is my usual Schongauer quick (3 pins no mirror) headcloth.
The base idea developed by me seeing too many pictures and and having an idea of what I would like and that it should be rather "regional" for the Upper-Rhine Region (I know, there is this whole crave for Upper-Rhine-Stuff, but I happen to live here..)
Among those "sources" is a tapistery at the Historical Museum of Basel, combined with some Schongauer & Housbook pictures and engravings, as seen at the Basler Kupferstichkabinett, the Musée d'Unterlinden in Alsace, as well as the Babenberger Stammbaum (Familytree).
It's too much 80ties/90ties, and too regional and too upper class to wear at The Company (Alas)
Because I am too lazy to photograph the pictures in my books, I just post links to myralea's fabulous gallery:
That's one of the inspirations for the neckline:
One for the back-pleating of the skirt (altough there are many more)
Hans Part (Babenberger Stammbaum, kept at the the Monastry Klosterneuburg
I just love the colours, and I am very thankful that myralea collected all those pictures:
The Chemise Dress
Or une "Chemise ā la Reine"
Or ā la Gaulle or Robe Chemise or Chemise-Dress or whatever :-))
The chemise dress has as many names as different looks. There are those with slim sleeves, going down to the wrist, there are those with short sleeves, some with big pouf sleeves etc. Some with a deep decollté some with a high neckline. Some with fitted backs, some with a mere drawstring fitting. Some have tubes for fitting, some not. Some come along with wonderful lace, some others with a fabric frill or without anything at all.
It's a dress form offering so many varieties as to fit every taste.
The name "Chemise ā la Reine" apparently is a hommage to Marie-Antoinette, who set the trend for those dresses. If she invented them or not - opinions vary - but she helped to make them popular. I consider them a lovely counterweight to all the fitted robe ā l'anglaise getting more and more popular. If stays are worn with it - I am in favour of, otherwise Mme de Lavoisier would bend differently. But then there is also pictoral evidence of women wearing those without her stays.
Mme du Barry - showing wide sleeves and a high neckline with lace
The Comtesse de Provence - rather high neckline, semi fitted sleeves with poufs
Mme Elisabeth, very high neckline
Gabrielle de Polastron, Duchesse de Polignac
Mme Lavoisier - with lace neckline, poufy sleeves and a very full skirt.
An original chemise dress, at Manchester. The additional drawstring at underbustlevel is rather fascinating, and was used again for the costumes in Eric Rohmers "l'Anglaise et le Duc"
Stills from "l'Anglaise et le Duc"
Apparently blue sashes were fashionable at a certain moment.
The construction of my choice was rather basic - a huge rectangle, gathered by a drawstring at the top. Two shoulder straps, and poufy sleeves (looking at them afterwards, they could also be a bit bigger). The material is cotton muslin, all handsewn (of course), by making french seams (a must with muslin)
The lace is a beautiful reproduction cotton tull lace, I bought from a dear friend.
The first time I wore the dress was at Nehelenias's Harvest ball - and to honour the taste of times past, with a blue sash:
The day after, the chemise dress came along with a small jacket:
I must say, I like the look of the white skirt with a jacket. Much more than the pure chemise-dress. I felt too much like a sugar candy. And altought wearing my stays, I felt unshaped. (layers: chemise, stays, two petticoats, dress)
Last winter I contemplated on those pictures - I didn't like the neckline, nor the fitting of the sleeves. I did some work at them, result - it's not really visible. But to please me, I worked on the wearing, added a new sash, redecorated my chapeau au grand pouf with red & white. I love the combination of red/white or red/black.
Pictures from Schwetzingen, we went for a garden tour last June. There are many more pictures of the outing, I just enclose those where my dress is seen. (I've been asked by a small girl if I am snow white... I had to decline)
a new entry - at last ;-)
A pale yellow round gown supposed to be called "The Daffodil" - or, an idea is getting real.
As some of you may know, I ususally shop for fabric, and while fabric shopping I'll decide what it's going to become.
There was one known exception of this rule sofar - the green Florentine-dress, and now the pale yellow rond gown.
I had - heaven knows from where, the idea of a pale yellow round gown. So very fresh and spring like. Not a chemise ā la Gaulle or ā la Reine, not a Robe ā l'anglaise, but a round gown.
The idea wanted to become reality, I found the fabric I wanted - soft light linnen, in a saffron-like dye (linnen with saffron gives the exact same shade, I compared a Roman tunic of mine).
The cut of the bodice follows roughly the pattern of my Anglaise, although it looks different.
Check of bodice fit (please ignore the mess in my sewing room)
The back wrinkles a bit, but should work with a few bones.
Front is rather low - but it's going with a Fichu anyway:
The seams are worked with the Stitch "point ā rabattre sous la main" - very relaxing, and the result is worth the work!
Beginning of April - Crazy Idea near Hannover:
The first sleeve was set in by Caterina, and the discovery made, that the very same pattern would do quite well for a Pierrot-Jacket.
Mid-April - folds
Folding 3m of back skirt panels is great fun. I enjoyed doing it so much, I did it 4 times!
Honestly - it just didn't look right. Than I remembered thankfully the "good old fork pleating", and I got to a good end:
I used my bed mattress as a gigantic needlecussion (it also prevented me from abandoning the skirt and heading to bed)
One side done, the other to go:
Pinned and basted bodice back (not yet boned):
Inside - the pleats do not follow the curve, but the extra fabric is folded in (period technique, never cut away extra fabric, it may come in usefull when re-using the fabric.
The front panel has 1.5m width, and is just gathered to a self fabric ribbon (a scrap from getting the edges straight)
No pictures of that step.
And finally - theres the finished dress:
The Pale Yellow Gown. Pictures taken by Heileen, on her and my camera:
Portrait pictures, one at Starbucks trying Heileen's hat :-)
The bodice the dress is worn over shift, stays, bump, woolen underskirt and stockings and Fichu. I had no time left to make me a nice fluffy Muslin underskirt, so I had to live without.
Accessories: Big hat (Materials used: straw & silk), a bouquet of Lily of the valley, and a pink sash.
When looking at the pictures, I'd like to make the following adjustments:
Redo the side seams - I dislike the bulking of the back parts at the seams.
Sleeves - I am not yet happy. Maybe try again with long sleeves?
Otherwise - I like the dress - very much ;-)
Some may wonder what has happened to the Pieds Gauches...
Since April there were two groups dancing in Switzerland, one the well known "Les Pieds Gauches" the other a new groupe, "Pieds Gauches LRGY".
Therefore the General Assembly decided to change the name, since 1st of November the groupe "Les Pieds Gauches" is now called "Les Tabourot"
It sounds funny, and yes - there is no s. Tabourot is the family name of one of the best known Renaissance Dancebook authors, and as we dance a lot of his repertoire, it is indeed a good name for a dance groupe.
So long - bear with us for the next months, it will get very interesting for "Les Tabourot"
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a summer photo shooting
With a small contingent of the Pieds Gauches we attended the Jugendfest Hägglingen - a youth festival.
After a day of dancing, we managed to get some staged pictures:
Attending were: Aniela, Andrea, Natascha and myself. Andrea mastered the heavy task of being there with two groups at once:
Me and Natascha - about skirt lenght (mine to long, her rather short)
Nataschas wonderful smile, and the fancy headdress!
from left to right: Aniela, myself and Natascha. Is there a current fashion in front V-laced kirtles?
My usual big headdress, but instead the veil down at the shoulders, its all wrapped around.
And this is the guy with the artistic eye (and camera lense) - Hannes aka Atall.
Fearful handsome, and so charming! (alas - he's married and has a son ;-))